ADAS calibration is the process of resetting your car's cameras, radar and sensors to their exact factory-specified angles and reference points, so the safety features that rely on them work accurately again. It’s sometimes called radar calibration instead, since it's frequently the radar-based sensors behind your bumpers, rather than the windscreen camera, that need resetting after a repair.
Some vehicles need static calibration, while others require dynamic calibration and many newer cars may need both. That means it’s vital you understand what you’re booking, when you need to book it and, with multiple moving parts involved, that you choose a reputable garage to complete the work.
Static calibration is carried out in a workshop, with the car stationary and precisely positioned in relation to calibration targets, boards or laser tools set up around it. This method relies on exact measurements and a level, controlled space, which is why it needs specialist equipment rather than a driveway or a car park.
Dynamic calibration is carried out on the road, with a technician driving the car at a set speed while diagnostic equipment recalibrates the sensors in real time based on road markings and surrounding traffic.
Thatcham Research, the UK motor insurers' research centre, sets the industry Code of Practice that technicians are expected to follow when calibrating ADAS to a recognised standard. You shouldn’t try to recalibrate your ADAS yourself as a sensor reading even a few millimetres out can mean the system misjudges distance, speed or position when it matters most.
ADAS stands for Advanced Driver Assistance Systems, and most cars built from around 2015 onwards have at least some form of it, though it's become close to universal on new cars since. If your car has any of the following, it has ADAS, and any of them can need recalibrating after certain repairs:
● Autonomous emergency braking (AEB)
● Lane departure warning or lane keep assist
● Adaptive cruise control
● Blind spot monitoring
● Parking sensors or a 360-degree camera
● Traffic sign recognition
● Automatic high beam control
The easiest way to check is your car's handbook, or simply think back to whether any of these features have ever activated while you've been driving. If you're still not sure, a garage can confirm it for you in minutes once you book.
ADAS relies on a network of cameras, radar and sometimes ultrasonic sensors dotted around your car. This positioning means so many every day repairs can easily knock them out of alignment.
● Windscreen-mounted camera. Usually tucked behind the rear-view mirror, used for lane keep assist, AEB and traffic sign recognition.
● Front and rear bumper radar/sensors. Used for adaptive cruise control, AEB and parking sensors. This is typically what people mean when they specifically ask about radar calibration.
● Wing mirror cameras. Used for blind spot monitoring and lane change assist.
● Windscreen, grille or bumper-mounted sensors. Depending on make and model, some cars also carry sensors in these areas for additional features.
Because these sensors are calibrated to work together in relation to fixed points on your car, you can easily throw the whole system off by moving, removing or replacing any of them, or the panel they're fitted to.
Calibration isn't something you need on a schedule, like a service or an MOT. Instead, it's triggered by specific events that move or replace the parts your sensors are fitted to or aligned against. You'll typically need it after:
● A windscreen replacement. The most common trigger, since it removes and refits the panel your forward-facing camera sits behind.
● A bumper repair. Front and rear bumpers usually house radar sensors, so replacing either of them can knock the sensors out of position even after a minor knock.
● A wing mirror replacement. This can disturb any blind spot or lane change camera housed inside it.
● Suspension or steering work. Ride height and wheel angle both affect how your sensors read the road, so a suspension repair or a power steering repair can both be triggers.
● A wheel alignment. This changes the angles your radar and camera systems are calibrated against.
● New wheels, tyres or a sensor replacement. A genuine change in ride height, wheel size or a replaced sensor itself can all mean recalibration is needed.
If you've had any of the above done recently and haven't had calibration checked, it's worth comparing prices now rather than waiting for a warning light to remind you.
These features exist to reduce driver error and buy you extra reaction time when it matters. In fact, independent testing from bodies like Euro NCAP consistently links well-functioning driver assistance systems to a lower risk of collision.
That means it's worth knowing when yours might not be doing its job properly. While most body shops or glass companies will tell you if your car needs recalibrating, sometimes it tells you itself, usually through the dashboard or through a feature that's stopped behaving the way it should. Look out for:
● An ADAS-related warning light on your dashboard, such as a lane departure, forward collision or "camera obstructed" symbol
● Adaptive cruise control that won't engage or that behaves inconsistently once it's on
● Lane keep assist that pulls unexpectedly, doesn't activate at all or activates too aggressively
● Parking sensors that give false readings, stay silent when they shouldn't or beep constantly with nothing nearby
● Any ADAS feature that worked fine before a windscreen, bumper or sensor-related repair, and doesn't afterwards
If the warning light appeared out of nowhere rather than straight after a repair, it's best to get a garage to check the fault code first, so you know exactly what you're dealing with before booking calibration itself.
No single figure gives you an honest answer here, because so much depends on your specific car and what you need calibrating.
As a general guide, you'll typically see UK prices sit somewhere between £150 and £500 for ADAS calibration, though yours could sit outside that range depending on a few factors:
● Your vehicle's make and model. Some manufacturers require more targets, more time or specific dealer-level equipment than others.
● Static vs. dynamic calibration. A job needing both methods generally costs more than one needing just one.
● The number of sensors involved. A single camera recalibration is a smaller job than a full multi-sensor reset.
● Whether it's bundled with another repair. Calibration booked alongside a windscreen or bumper replacement is sometimes priced differently to calibration on its own.
Rather than accepting a single figure from whoever's already quoting you for the triggering repair, comparing real prices from multiple garages through our comparison site is the only way to know whether you're actually getting good value for your specific car.
Prices vary by vehicle, calibration method and your chosen garage. Compare your exact price instantly using your reg and postcode.
Most ADAS calibration jobs take somewhere between 30 minutes and a few hours, depending on your vehicle and which method it needs. A straightforward static calibration on a car needing just one target can be relatively quick, while a job requiring both static and dynamic calibration, or multiple sensors reset in sequence, will naturally take longer.
Your garage will be able to confirm a more accurate estimate once they know your make and model and the scale of work needed.
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